In Germany, a debate has flared up again — one that may seem comical to outsiders, but for Germans touches on questions of culinary honor and cultural identity. The trigger was a sensational discovery by historians in Erfurt: a document from 1269 mentioning a building near the famous Krämerbrücke and a “Bräter” — a man roasting meat. According to Deutsche Presse-Agentur, this could be the earliest known reference to a Bratwurst stand, challenging long-established beliefs.
A Document That Could Rewrite Sausage History
Until recently, the undisputed leader in the “oldest Bratwurst” race was Regensburg’s Wurstkuchl, proudly calling itself “the oldest sausage kitchen in the world,” based on a reference from 1378. About 25 years ago, Regensburg defended this title in a heated dispute with Nuremberg. Now, Erfurt presents evidence that predates it by 109 years.
But there’s a catch: the newly found document never explicitly uses the word “Bratwurst.” As noted by Thomas Mäuer, director of the German Bratwurst Museum in Mühlhausen, the earliest reliable written trace of the term is from Arnstadt in 1404 — a bill recording “1 groschen for Bratwurst casings.” Everything else, he argues, remains speculation. Still, it’s not impossible that Erfurt was already serving the iconic snack in the 13th century.
What Exactly Makes a Bratwurst?
The German dispute is not only about culinary primacy but also about definitions. Must a Bratwurst be grilled or fried to earn its name? Is simply being encased enough? Should the recipe follow a specific tradition?
In German culture, Bratwurst is far more than just food. It’s a ritual: the smell wafting over a fairground, the snap of the skin at the first bite, the juicy, smoky flavor, greasy fingers, the brass band playing in the background, children laughing, the scent of sunscreen in the air. It’s no surprise that politicians like Markus Söder and Angela Merkel have posed with one in hand, projecting simplicity and a connection to the people.
Switzerland: A Unique Recipe and Cultural Mission
The Swiss watch this German rivalry from the sidelines. For them, the question of Bratwurst’s origin has long been settled: it’s the pale veal sausage from St. Gallen or its variant, the Olma Bratwurst. The recipe, first recorded in 1438, calls for veal, pork fat, spices, and fresh milk — the milk giving the sausage its distinctive white color.
The Swiss approach also differs in how it’s served: while mustard is a natural pairing in Germany, in eastern Switzerland it’s considered almost sacrilegious. There’s no competition with the other national favorite, Cervelat — in Switzerland, it isn’t classified as a Bratwurst at all.
Historically, this sausage also played a symbolic role: the famous Zurich Sausage Eating of 1522, when townspeople led by reformer Huldrych Zwingli openly broke the Lenten fast, became one of the symbolic sparks of the Reformation.
Why the Dispute Matters in Germany
As noted by NZZ, the German fascination with Bratwurst isn’t just about gastronomy. In a globalized world of constant change, a simple regional sausage offers a “fixed point of flavor” — a tangible, unchanging piece of home. This is why the question of where the first Bratwurst sizzled — in Regensburg, Nuremberg, or Erfurt — goes far beyond culinary curiosity.
Because in Germany, Bratwurst isn’t just meat in a casing. It’s a symbol of place, tradition, and the things that remain constant, even when everything else changes.
This article was prepared based on materials published by Neue Zürcher Zeitung. The author does not claim authorship of the original text but presents their interpretation of the content for informational purposes.
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