When the evening sets in over Athens and the air fills with the mouthwatering aroma of grilled meat, one thing becomes clear: Greece has a dish that brings everyone together — from students and pensioners to office workers and artists. That dish is souvlaki — an affordable, hearty, and humble grilled sandwich that has become a true national symbol.
According to Le Monde, the origins of souvlaki in Greece trace back to the 1920s, when waves of refugees from Asia Minor fled violence and massacre in Smyrna and arrived in Athens. That migration — about 1.5 million people in a country that then had only 5.4 million inhabitants — didn’t just transform the country politically and socially. It left an enduring mark on Greek cuisine.
These refugees brought with them a rich culinary heritage known as politiki kouzina — the cuisine of the Greeks from Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul). This gastronomic tradition, full of spices and layered flavors, blended Ottoman, Armenian, and Anatolian influences and transformed the local food landscape.
The Birth of a Greek Classic
The story of souvlaki in Greece begins with Isaak Meraklidis, a Greek-Armenian refugee from Asia Minor, who in 1924 opened what is believed to be the first souvlaki shop in the country — in Nikaia, a portside district near Athens. Meraklidis is said to have taken inspiration from Turkish kebabs, but gave the dish a distinctly Greek twist by replacing thin Turkish bread with thick pita and adding local herbs and sauces.
At first, the dish was simply grilled skewers of lamb. Later came vertical rotisseries — similar to the Turkish döner. The now-iconic version, gyros, made with thin slices of pork, rose to popularity in the late 1960s and 70s. During Greece’s military dictatorship, minced meat was officially banned for sanitary reasons, prompting cooks to switch to sliced meat. That restriction helped shape the gyros as we know it today.
Simple, Affordable, Beloved by All
Nowadays, souvlaki is everywhere — from northern Thessaloniki to the smallest island villages. In Athens, it’s typically served with tomatoes, onions, and tzatziki. In Thessaloniki, you might find mustard or ketchup instead. But the core stays the same: grilled pork or chicken, either on a skewer (kalamaki) or from a spit (gyros), wrapped in warm pita. Costing around €3.50 to €4.50, it’s a go-to meal for nearly every budget — especially in a country with one of the lowest purchasing powers in the EU.
“This is our little weekend treat,” says Angeliki Gianeas, dining with her husband and children at the popular Rigani tavern in the Kypseli neighborhood. “Almost every Friday, we order it at home and eat it together on the balcony or in front of the TV,” she adds, before taking another bite of her gyros pita.
Journalist Tasos Brekoulakis, co-author of the book Souvlaki: A Culinary Journey from Homer’s Epics to Modern Street Food, emphasizes that “all generations — and more importantly, all social classes — eat souvlaki, often in the same places. There are no luxury souvlaki joints.” In his view, few dishes carry the kind of unifying power that souvlaki does. “If you ask a Greek, especially a young one, what the national dish is, chances are they’ll say souvlaki.”
A National Taste with Ottoman Echoes
Though its roots lie in the traditions of the Ottoman Empire, Greeks firmly claim souvlaki as their own. “Yes, it has Eastern origins, but its taste, composition, and presentation are unmistakably Greek,” says Brekoulakis. Greek historians and the media often highlight the dish’s deep historical roots — grilled meat on skewers was part of ancient Greek cuisine. In Homer’s Odyssey, for example, Odysseus is served pork skewers upon his return to Ithaca — perhaps the first literary mention of something like souvlaki.
More Than Food — A Cultural Connector
Souvlaki is more than a street snack. It’s a symbol — a culinary thread linking history, identity, memory, and everyday life. In a country where economic struggles and social divisions still shape daily reality, souvlaki stands out as one of the rare things that truly unites people across all backgrounds.
According to Le Monde, Greeks eat souvlaki on average twice a week. That statistic alone underscores its cultural importance. In its warm pita, tender meat, and tangy sauces, souvlaki embodies the spirit of Greece itself: hospitable, layered, steeped in tradition, and always ready to share something delicious.
This article was prepared based on materials published by Le Monde. The author does not claim authorship of the original text but presents their interpretation of the content for informational purposes.
The original article can be found at the following link: Le Monde.
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